#26 Seoul City Guide

Editor: Hye Soo Seol @hyssl.kr

 

 

At the end of April, I returned to Seoul on a short business trip. Over time, I’ve formed a bit of a routine: I find myself drifting into independent bookstores. This trip was no different.

Inside, the displays reflected the city’s current mood — vlogs turned into text, books recommended by owners to commemorate an impeachment, and introspective records of “life in Seoul.” One book stood out: a compilation of interviews with 30 creative souls — from a buyer at Beaker to the CEO of a design studio — each sharing their perspective on Seoul. Though interviewed separately, their memories and recommendations overlapped, and one word consistently surfaced: dynamic.

Returning to the city after just two months, I could feel that energy. The afterglow of Coldplay’s concert still lingered in the streets. Runners lined the Han River. Baseball fans, decked out in team jerseys, gathered at Seoul Station in the early morning. Trends and weather shift fast here — but there’s a sincerity that grounds everything. Conversations now naturally include words like pace, zone 2, and PB (personal best), and performance sunglasses and running gear from global brands have blended into daily wear. Seoul is always in motion.

Of course, that dynamism sometimes feels bittersweet. Each time I tapped on a saved location in KakaoMap, I’d see the same message: permanently closed. Though I’ve only lived in Singapore for a year and a half, the list of places I instinctively want to return to has gotten smaller. Still, thanks to my friends in Seoul — who continue to love and live in the city — I had a great time in good company.

So here’s a guide to four thoughtfully designed half-day courses across Seoul. A mix of new finds and old favorites, these routes are perfect if you love Korean food, good music, thoughtful brands, and a bit of stillness.

 

 

➊ Gyeongbokgung Course “A Classic That Won’t Change with Time”

Room 5 → Jahamun-ro 10-gil → Seochon Garak → Cham in Season Bar

 

• Room 5

Room 5 is a café and roastery near the entrance to the Inwangsan hiking trail. From Gyeongbokgung Station Exit 3, walk straight and you’ll spot a small café with bar-only seating. Through its large window, you’ll see people quietly sipping coffee while the barista pours with focus behind the counter.

I ordered a warm cappuccino, and as soon as I took my first sip, I wished I had better words to describe it — I’m no coffee expert. Still, the velvety, dense milk foam was unlike anything I’d had before. It was the perfect spot to catch up with a friend I hadn’t seen in a while. The light drizzle outside and the crisp air made it even better.

• Jahamun-ro 10-gil

Just around the corner is Jahamun-ro 10-gil, lined with a mix of local and international brands that reflect the calm charm of Seochon. I tend to look for timeless pieces — the kind of clothes I can wear for 5 or 10 years — and this street is filled with brands that don’t chase trends.

Start with Monoha, a minimalist store for everyday clothing and home goods. Across the street, Baserange offers sustainable basics in soft neutral tones — made mostly from organic cotton and recycled materials. Next door is the ilma’s flagship store, set inside a renovated hanok (traditional Korean house). It’s known for vivid, detailed designs, but the store itself tells its own story — a tree in the courtyard, sleek sofas under old wooden beams, and fitting rooms that merge old and new. If you turn into a nearby alley, you’ll find Ramshackle. Climb the stairs past framed African art, and you’ll find jewelry, perfume, and decor inspired by ancient Egyptian and Afghan motifs.

• Seochon Garak

By now, you’re likely hungry. Seochon Garak is a cozy spot for a drink and a bite — best known for its regional makgeolli (traditional Korean rice wine) and handmade noodles. Since it was chilly, I ordered soju and pajeon (savory green onion pancake with seafood) (green onion and seafood pancake), but really, everything here is good — even the side of kimchi.

• Cham in Season Bar

End the night at Cham in Season Bar, just across from Gyeongbokgung Station. It’s the sister bar of Bar Cham, which made Asia’s 50 Best Bars list — but this location is still under the radar, so you can usually walk in. The lights are low, the atmosphere quiet, and the drinks are made with seasonal Korean ingredients. I tried the Spring Martini, made with gin, Hallabong zest, and pickled spring produce. It tasted distinctly Korean — something you wouldn’t find in a typical bars all over the world. A perfect place for a laid-back conversation with friends, no matter where they’re from.

➋ Yeonnam & Hapjeong Course “Coffee, music and Gukbap with youthful energy”

Anthracite Yeonhui Branch → Sound Good Store → Eojjeoda Bookstore → Hapjeongok

• Anthracite Yeonhui Branch

Anthracite’s Yeonhui branch — less known than its Hapjeong and Hannam siblings — has its own quiet charm. The entire second floor is lined with floor-to-ceiling windows looking out at a school across the street. Depending on the season or time, the view changes the feel of the space. In the evening, the dim lighting lets the scenery take center stage. A gentle jazz playlist makes the coffee feel even more comforting.

• Sounds Good Store

Head over the overpass into Yeonnam-dong and stop by Sounds Good Store, a record shop packed with all time good albums across various genres from jazz, house, electronic, to pop. On this trip, I picked up Fred Again’s “Actual Life,” but it was tough not to also walk out with Erykah Badu’s “Mama’s Gun,” Ryuichi Sakamoto’s “Merry Christmas, Mr. Lawrence,” or the Minari soundtrack. Each album has a QR code for instant listening, and there’s plenty of cute merch too.

• Somehow a bookstore

A short walk away is Somehow, a Bookstore — a small, quiet spot that pairs books with rotating mini-exhibitions. It’s one of the few calm corners in Yeonnam. Handwritten notes suggest who each book might suit or which titles pair well together. Every purchase is wrapped with care. The people who run it clearly want visitors to enjoy taking their time.

• Hapjeongok

For dinner, head to Hapjeongok — a restaurant featured in the Michelin Guide for six years straight. Their clear, delicate gomtang (slow-simmered beef bone soup) (ox bone soup) is served with rice, oxtail, and scallions. Just one spoonful melts away the day’s fatigue.

 

Or, if you’d rather stay in Yeonhui, visit Nokwon Ssambap instead. Inside a cozy single-story home, you’ll enjoy samhap (a traditional trio of pork, fish, and kimchi)-style pork, squid, and mushrooms wrapped in fresh greens — it feels like having dinner at a friend’s house.

 

➌ Gangnam Course “From Mexico to K-town”

Villa Guerrero → Banpo Hangang Park → Gilmok

 

• Villaguerrero

Past COEX and the office towers of Samseong Central Station, you’ll find Villa Guerrero — a no-frills taco spot with an unmistakable Mexican vibe. To be honest, it might’ve been the best taco I’ve had in Seoul.
The menu is short — five or six tacos and a few drinks. I ordered the tongue taco and the mix (a combo of tongue, cheek, belly, and tripe). Served simply on a plastic plate with lime and cilantro, it was fatty, chewy, spicy, and perfect.

• Banpo Hangang Park

To walk it off, hop on Subway Line 9 to Sinbanpo Station. Banpo Hangang Park and the Submersible Bridge are right there — a peaceful stretch by the river where you can relax or stroll.

• Gilmok

If you’re hungry again (you probably will be), head to Gilmok. Most Gangnam restaurants are built for corporate dinners and forgettable after one visit, but this one keeps me coming back. Their grilled meats are solid, the doenjang-bap (soybean paste rice) and gyeran-jjim (steamed egg) are just right, and — best of all — there’s no corkage fee for your own wine or whiskey.

➍ Sindang & Oksu Course “Course for Runners”

Cafe Wild Duck → Han River Running → Chicken Mania

• Cafe Wild Duck

Start with coffee at Cafe Wild Duck, hidden behind an underground parking entrance. It’s the café sibling of the Haebangchon wine bar Wild Duck & Canteen. The terrace is invisible from the street but opens into a surprisingly calm pocket of sun and space — a quiet start to the day.

• Han River Running

From there, head to Oksu Station using Subway Line 3 (Just one station away). Exit 3 leads you to Hangang Park in just a few minutes. Run to Banpo Bridge and back — about 5km — and you’ll feel like a true Seoulite. Surrounded by runners your age, the pace becomes contagious.

• Chicken Mania

Of course, part of my motivation came from knowing what was waiting at the finish line: chimac. Near Oksu Station is a familiar chicken joint. With an interior elements like floral tablecloths, thick glass tabletops, yellow-backed chairs, you will feel local Korean neighborhood diner. I ordered fried chicken, tteokbokki, and a draft beer set. It was the perfect end to a 5K run. Even the chill wind blowing through the open doors felt just right.